Kantha Embroidery as a Model of Sustainable Fashion and Women’s Empowerment: Evidence from West Bengal

Abstract

Kantha embroidery, one of India’s most enduring indigenous textile traditions, has evolved from a domestic recycling practice into a significant model of sustainable fashion and women-led socio-economic empowerment. Originating in West Bengal, Kantha was historically created by rural women through the repurposing of worn saris and dhotis using simple running stitches. This study examines the transformation of Kantha embroidery from a household craft to its contemporary role within sustainable and circular fashion systems. The research adopts a mixed-method approach, combining a quantitative survey of 424 women artisans across West Bengal with qualitative interviews involving artisans, designers, cooperative members, and representatives of non-governmental and government-supported initiatives, including the Rural Craft and Cultural Hubs (RCCH) project. The findings reveal substantial improvements in women’s economic conditions, financial autonomy, social mobility, and participation in household and community decision-making after engagement in Kantha-based livelihoods. In addition to its socio-economic impact, the study highlights Kantha’s strong alignment with sustainable fashion principles through the extensive use of recycled textiles, natural materials, hand-stitching techniques, and low-carbon production processes. These practices contribute to textile waste reduction and support several United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, particularly gender equality, responsible consumption, and climate action. The study concludes that reinforcing indigenous crafts such as Kantha not only safeguards intangible cultural heritage but also offers a viable and inclusive pathway for sustainable fashion and rural women’s empowerment.